Wine 10 min

Corton-Charlemagne

On Burgundy in the rain, an impish count descended from Charlemagne, and the wine that justifies the trip

I just spent a week in the Côte d'Or of Burgundy tasting at some of the most prestigious estates in the world. Before you all close your computers in disgust, let me just say that these trips are not easy. There were no naps.

The elegantly named Count Jean-Charles Le Bault de la Morinière is as singularly unique as his wines. Here is an impish, courtly and intelligent man. Descended from the aristocracy — he made what I suspect is a well-worn joke about his family locking the doors on Bastille Day every year — he could easily be sunning himself on the slopes of St. Moritz.

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